Jaipur

Thursday 30th October. Arrived in Jaipur today afternoon after a long 7 hour coach ride from Agra. The travelling time isn't taken up by the distance - but the state of the roads and amount of traffic. Potholes do not even begin to describe the awful state of the 'national highways'!

Oh yes - on the way we passed a 'dumping ground' - ie a huge waste tip where about 20 or so men were squatting 'dumping'. (Is that where the term 'city dump' comes from??) Peeing in the streets is normal but we also saw a man 'enjoying himself' so to speak, in public, facing the road!!!
Anyway, first impression is that Jaipur is a beautiful city - in the old part (ie within the gates) the buildings are all pink and with very wide streets. And the buildings are lovely but very tatty and run-down (as is most of India methinks).

Very, very crowded too and the traffic is just as chaotic as elsewhere. Highway Code? Not here.
We stopped at a carpet making factory (another 'shopping opportunity!). Wonderful patterned silk or wool carpets and rugs were being made and a couple of our party actually bought rugs - one to hopefully fit into a suitcase to take home and the other to be shipped home.
The hotel in Jaipur (well, about 5 miles outside the city) is Le Meridien and is very luxurious. I have a 4-poster bed, about 7ft wide, and a huge black marble bathroom complete with wet-room area for shower. Mmmm - I could live permantely like this.

Friday 31st October. This morning we went to the Amber Fort, once the ancient capital of the Rajput Empire. Interesting video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zqwtSXxhO9g, and more information on http://www.indiasite.com/rajasthan/jaipur/amber.html
We were all hoping to ride up by elephant but the queue was about an hour long - why is everyone here at the same time as me - we had to go up by jeep which was an experience in itself. The palace there was huge and beautiful and dates back to the 16th Century. In one hall the walls and ceiling were covered in mirrored tiles - all cut into small shapes to make beautiful patterns - and they are original.

During the afternoon we went on a sightseeing tour of the city. As busy and crowded as Delhi and Agra, but the beautiful buildings and wide roads made it a lovely place to be. We visited the old palace of the Maharajah of Rajistan, now a museum showing all the wonderful clothes they wore. Such workmanship. We also paid a visit to the 17thC Observatory which has, amongst lots of other things, a sundial which is 90ft high.

Saturday 1st November. This morning we took a coach trip to Samode Palace, a spectacular 19thC palace (featured in the film 'The Far Pavilions') and now a luxury heritage hotel. On the way we stopped for coffee at Samode Bagh (Bagh means 'garden'). There was a wonderful 'tented' hotel there - all very luxurious but with none of the mod cons like telephone or tv there - on purpose. An ideal honeymoon venue I would think! Each deluxe 'tent' is wonderfully furnished and they are set in beautiful gardens. A website for pics: http://www.indianholiday.com/india-photo-gallery/rajasthan/samode/samode-bagh/

On the way back to the hotel we drove through the city again where we stopped for a while were 'let loose' to shop in the street bazaar.

That was fun and we all haggled successfully and all in good spirit! We took a bicycle rickshaw ride back to the coach, dodging the traffic, people - and cows. It was a bit hairy!

In the evening we had our 'farewell' dinner at the hotel where we all swapped snail mail and email addresses. It was a happy but sad occassion. Vijay, in his speech, said he had never had such a happy group of people who had laughed and joked so much! So you see - Saga can be fun - not all old grey miserable wrinklies!!

Sunday 2nd November. Today was my last day as I have to leave Jaipur at 3pm for Delhi airport to check in at midnight for the 0330 flight on Monday. So in the morning we actually had 'leisure time' and I treated myself to an Ayurvedic Indian Full Body Massage. At the end of it I could have flown home not needing an aeroplane - I felt wonderful. Because we all arrived at various times at the beginning of the holiday, departure times were also varied and some people did not leave until the following day. I felt very sad waving goodbye to those who were remaining at the hotel until the following day.

Agra

Monday 27th October. Delhi was a city like nowhere else I have been - dirty, chaotic, crowded to the nth degree, but fantastic. I have never seen so much poverty. After 3 mindblowing days there and a long (6 hour), but interesting coach journey I have now arrived in Agra where we are staying at The Gateway Hotel. This afternoon had my first view of the Taj Mahal. Amazing. We were taken through miles of back streets, past no end of 'hovels' alongside the street, to some gardens called Mehtab Bagh which are across the Jamuna River at the back of the Taj Mahal. The name Mehtab Bagh means 'Moonlit Garden'. It is believed that the emperor Shah Jahan, who built Taj Mahal for his queen, wanted an identical one for himself at Mehtab Bagh and the garden was designed to offer the perfect view of the Taj. The joy of being there is that there are not thousands of other people spoiling the atmosphere. The river was low so reflections were not good, but a friendly camel came along on cue to make one of my photos interesting!
Tuesday 28th October. Got up at 0430 this morning in order to be at the Taj Mahal for sunrise. We made it well before dawn and the gates opened at 0630. I cannot really describe my first impression. I am not a 'spiritual' person, but I found my first view of the front of that magnificent building, reflected in the lake, a very moving experience and I was not the only one to shed a tear. It did not seem too crowded at that early hour, but by the time we left a couple of hours later there must have been thousands of people there. But that didn't matter, just being there was an experience I will never forget - it even beats the pyramids!
In the afternoon we visited Agra Fort. http://www.aviewoncities.com/agra/fort.htm Situated on the banks of the Jamuna River this fort was built by Emperor Akbar between 1565 and 1573. The imposing red sandstone ramparts encompass an enormous complex of courtly buildings and palaces. The barracks, hidden behind the tall front ramparts, were built by the British in the 19thC. We spent some time exploring the various buildings, somewhat 'gobsmacked' by the intricate decorations and brickwork. Emperor Shah Jehan also ruled from there. (The mosque in Woking is called the Shah Jehan Mosque, so this name is very familiar to me).
We returned to the Taj Mahal for sunset. This time we did not enter the tomb itself, but were just happy to sit and watch the beautiful white marble turn pinky-orange as the sun set and just soaked up the atmosphere.
On the way back to the hotel we stopped at an embroidery picture showroom and also a factory/showroom where marble inlay work is done - as in the wonderful marble at the Taj. This was very interesting and intricate work, and these visits turned out to be the first of several 'shopping opportunities' arranged by our tour guide!
Today was a wonderful day.

Wednesday 29th October. Today we visited Fatehpur Sikri, a Mughal walled city built by Emperor Akbar. Never before have I been so hassled by street hawkers and beggers. They are really 'in your face' there and are not to be deterred. Inside the city itself Vijay (our tour leader) employed the services of two friends of his to act as guards and send the sellers and children away by waving big sticks! They were two lovely men and I am pleased to have photos of them, and gave them quite a hefty tip (by Indian standards) at the end of our visit as they served us really well and made the visit more pleasurable.
Alongside the city is the Royal Complex which contained the private and public spaces of Akbar's court, including the harem and treasury. A beautiful place where, fortunately, hawkers etc are not allowed as entry had to be paid for (no fee to enter the city so they are allowed in).
Interesting 10 minute History Channel Film on Fatehpur Sikri: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kHMfc4eo1io
Later in the day we visited Sikandra, Emperor Akbar's mausoleum.

Maf

Delhi

Arrived in Delhi around 2300 local time last night. Thanks to my lovely, thoughtful, fabulous neighbour who works for BA I got an upgrade to Club World class so spent a lovely 8 hours stretched out on the plane, drinking as much as I liked (not too much though), served lovely food and watched a film or two. That is the life - wish I could afford it for every flight.
The flight took us over Holland, Germany, Poland, over the Caspian Sea then down through (I think) Georgia and other countries that I don't know (!) into India. Lovely views from the plane although by the time we flew over the western Himalayas it was dark so couldn't see anything.
There were 4 other ladies on the flight, and we met up in Delhi. Others arrive to day so I am wondering what the mix will be.
The drive by minibus to the hotel was and experience in itself - I think chaotic is the word. I was talking to a very nice Indian on the plane, who lives in Boston Ma., and when I mentioned that I could see cars driving on the left (as we do) he said 'that is the theory but just you wait and see'. I saw exactly what he meant from the bus! No-one signals their intentions, overtake on all sides and at every angle and I saw 3 people on a little scooter, the girl on the back looked about 12 and her sari was flowing about everywhere. They juggled in and out of the traffic and it was terrifying to watch. The coach tour of Old Delhi tomorrow will, I am sure, be interesting in more ways than one - assuming I keep my eyes open and not close them too often because of what is happening on the road!
Currently staying in the Crowne Plaza hotel, very nice and comfortable. Not too sure yet what is happening today as we haven't met up with the Rep. yet so I expect I will be spending most of today in and around the hotel - there is lots to do, lovely pool, spa, shopping 'mall' and 24-hour Bistro. We meet up with the Rep this afternoon so will find out more of what is going on.

Sat 25th October. This morning we had an early start for an 'included tour' of the City Tour of Old Delhi. The first stop was to a charity called PRAYAS. This charity is supported by Saga http://www.saga.co.uk/saga-charitable-trust/projects/india/prayas/prayas.asp and is a charity to 'rescue' boys who run away from home from all parts of India and live on the trains and railway. The first action is to try to understand why they ran away in the first place and, if possible, to reinstate them with their families, but if this does not work out they are housed and educated by the charity in the hopes that at the end of their education they can live a full and fruitful lives. It was a very moving experience to see these boys - and we all wondered how they could look so happy considering what they have been through. This is a charity I definitely intend to support.

Following this visit we drove through the chaotic streets of Old Delhi to visit some Temples. The first was the Sikh Temple 'Bangla Sahib'. An interesting place there, apart from the temple itself which was beautiful, was the 'kitchen' where volunteers prepare food for the 'hungry'. The second temple was the 'Birla Temple' (Hindu). We went inside both of these and photo's are on my Picasaweb site http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/judystevens17/India#

The third was the 'Lotus Temple' (Bahia Religion) and this was an amazing building - shaped like a lotus bud. We did not go into this one - firstly because it was heaving with people and secondly because by then we had been 'templed out' and were all feeling very tired.

On the way back to the hotel we drove past the Government buildings and the Indian Parliament and had a view of India Gate. What a difference to the squalour and poverty we had seen in the streets of Old Delhi.

We spend a quiet time during what was left of the afternoon and in the early evening we were taken to a demonstration of Indian regional dancing. This lasted about an hour and was lovely. On return to the hotel we had a 4-course Indian meal at one of the hotel restaurants. Very nice!

Sunday 26th October. We had another tour of Old Delhi this morning - this time it was an 'optional tour' ie had to be paid for! We first of all visited the Jami Masjid Mosque, built by Shah Jehan, and completed in 1656. It took 5000 workmen six years to to construct and it is India's largest mosque. The huge central courtyard can accommodate 20,000 people at prayer times. The gold domes really glittered in the bright sunlight.

From there we went to The Red Fort. This huge fort is in the centre of Old Delhi and was commissioned by Shah Jehan in 1639 and took nine years to build and it was the seat of Mughal power until 1857. The buildings and internal decorations were amazing. Again, there are lots of photos of this on Picasaweb.

On our return we made a brief stop at Rajghat - the site of Mahatma Gandhi's memorial and cremation. I think I am right in saying the eternal flame burning there goes back to the original cremation fire, A very spiritual place and very peaceful.

There was only time back at the hotel for a quick sandwich for lunch before heading off for an 'optional tour' of New Delhi. The two main features of this trip were a visit to Qutub Minar (a bit of 'old' Delhi in New Delhi!). This extraordinary tower was built in the 12thC and stands 72m high. The decorations on the red brickwork are beautiful. This tower stands in the grounds of the ruins of the Quwat-Ul-Islam Mosque, completed in 1193 and built to announce the advent of the Muslim sultans.

This was followed by a visit to Humayun's Tomb. This tomb, built in 1570, is of particular cultural significance as it was the first garden-tomb on the Indian subcontinent. It is a predecessor the Taj Mahal.

For our final dinner in Delhi - we had a Chinese meal! On the top floor of the hotel - and the night-time view was stunning.

Right, that's it then ...

... I have now checked in and printed my boarding pass (isn't technology wonderful) and it is confirmed I fly out from Terminal 5.

So, I have to set my alarm for 0430 tomorrow morning as a car should be arriving at 0600 to take me to the airport. Check in opens at 0655 but now I have done all that online I will be very early. Never mind, I will have loads of time to browse around what is supposed to be a wonderful shopping area in T5 and then go and get my last English Breakfast for a couple of weeks.

(nb - the diet starts when I get home - can't miss out on all the lovely curries!)

Happy days!!

The Saga Continues

I have received my e-ticket and printed my itinerary off from the BA website - but there is still confusion - not about the return flight, that is sorted (allegedly) but this time I have concerns about my outbound flight.

My itinerary and the BA website tell me I am departing from Terminal 5, yet Ceefax and the Departure/Arrivals page on the website tell me that over the past few days the flights I am using (incoming and outgoing) have used Terminal 4.

I telephoned SAGA and they were adamant I depart from Terminal 5 and anyway a Rep would be there to greet me and point me in the right direction.

So what do I do - be a good girl and go to Terminal 5 as instructed and possibly have to rush over to Terminal 4, or go straight to Terminal 4?

I can check-in online tomorrow (Wednesday) morning, so perhaps things may be clearer when I do that.

To be continued . . . . .

Flight Confirmed

Well, after spending quite a while on the telephone to Saga listening to track after track of 70's music I finally got through to a rep. who couldn't help me! I was told I would receive a call back in half an hour, and eventually I had a call confirming the 0330 flight on 3rd November. Oh well, not as good at departing at 1300 but at least I get an extra 24 hours in Delhi, and arrive home at 0725 GMT on 3rd November. Let's hope my transport home gets sorted.

Now - I wonder if I can find any hot-weather clothes that still fit me. Most of them stayed in the wardrobe during this last lousy summer.

The Start of the Saga

I am starting this blog because I will be travelling around quite a bit in the months to come and this seems a good way of recording and sharing my travel experiences and hopefully pics. This is my first attempt at 'blogging' so I hope to improve along the way and maybe upload a few photos.

On 23rd October I am going to India for 10 days or so. I say 'or so' because, to date, Saga (with whom I am going) do not seem to have decided my time or date of return from Delhi. More of that below....





My trip to India is with Saga Singles and is called 'The Land of the Maharajas' and I have no idea yet who my travelling companions will be. I posted a note on the Travel Section of 'Saga Zone' (what my daughters call 'Wrinkley's Facebook!) asking if anyone else was going on the same holiday as me and I had a response from a very nice lady from Aberdeen. We have been keeping in touch via emails and MSN messenger and I am looking forward to meeting her. The holiday covers 'the Golden Triangle' - 3 nights each in Delhi, Agra and Jaipur. I am sure it will be stunning although I am already preparing myself for the terrible sights of poverty, animal cruelty etc. that I am sure to see.

Now for the return flight confusion .... Because I upgraded my flights it seemed someone made a **** up and there were no upgraded seats available on the planned flight home at 0330(!) on Sunday morning 2nd November. The Saga rep. who telephoned me to inform me of this told me I had two choices - either downgrade and fly home with the rest of the group, or keep my upgrade and fly home a day later at 1300. Ummm - difficult decision - fly home cattle class at 0330 or stay an extra night in a 5* hotel with an extra day in Delhi at Saga's expense and depart at a respectable hour. Needless to say it did not take me long to decide on the second option. I asked for written confirmation of this change of plan.

When it was not received after a couple of days I phoned Saga back and asked about it. The person to whom I spoke knew nothing of the changes as they were 'not on my screen'. After consulting various people she confirmed that, yes, I was flying home at 1300 on Monday 3rd November. Yipee!

But the 'saga' continues. When my e-ticket arrived yesterday (Saturday) the return flight shown was neither of the above, but 0330 on Monday 3rd November - ie not the original 0330 2nd November flight nor the nice 1300 one on 3rd November but the same godawful hour and just 24 hours later than the original flight. So back to the telephone to Saga, only to be told that the 'aviation office' is not open at weekends so would I please call back on Monday (tomorrow).

Oh yes - another Saga bluey. They are very good at looking after their clients and for long haul holidays they provide door-to-door personal transport from home to the airport and vice versa. I am being collected at the correct time on the outward journey, but the paperwork tells me that a car will be meeting me at Heathrow on 2nd November - ie meeting the original flight that I know I will not be on!!

So, I will call them tomorrow and hopefully get confirmation of my homeward flight, transportation to home and update this blog.

If you think you would like to follow my travels (assuming, of course, I get computer access occasionally and can keep this blog updated) please bookmark this page and check on it now and again.

This blog will continue throughout my Indian holiday and for my long three-and-a-half month marathon to New Zealand, Alaska and crossing the USA from Vancouver to Boston. I depart for New Zealand on 12th April next year and return at the end of July.